Sean's Blog: "Spiritual Communities"

Friday, March 23, 2007

Web link!

I just deleted "Sean, The Blog" if you're checking this webspace and looking for my latest, you can visit my homepage (hey I have one now, finally!) www.livemoore.com
Much love!

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Spiritual Communities Portfolio

Oi!
After many hours of work, the portfolio was put together about a month ago...
The hard copy is beautiful, with lots of magazine and newspaper articles about the Silver Jubilee and print outs of all the photos from the web pages... come to think of it, it was a little expensive.... :)
Any how, a few people have asked about the final paper, and so (if I am successful with the html--) following is a print out of the Table of Contents from the portfolio, the major essays should be clickable links to PDF files of sections of the portfolio itself...
(Hint: Right click and choose "Save Target As..." should open up a window for you to save the PDF files on your computer so you can view them offline or print them easily.... AND if you can't view the files, go to www.adobe.com and download the latest version of Acrobat Reader, which is completely free...)
Anyway, here is the online portfolio!




Table of Contents

Sean Moore

NCLC 495

Spiritual Communities




Glossary


Introduction – Spiritual Communities, Backwards

Competencies – Effective Citizenship: Studying Indian Spirituality

Competencies – Valuing: Anger and Artha

Competencies – Global Understanding: The Art of Living Foundation

Competencies – Global Understanding: India and the World Economy

Living In India – Introduction to the Journals and Web Log

Early Journals & Essays (Hard-copy only!)

Web Log & Photogtaphs of India
(Since you're on the blog, just use the list of months
in the 'Archive' on the right hand side of the page!)

Conclusion – Home, the Heart, and Where It All Is

Annotated Bibliography

Things Found—Appendix (Hard-copy only!)

Monday, May 15, 2006

Dismissing Theology?

After my noon time meal and checking my e-mail yesterday, just as I was about to retreat to my journal and reflect on my seemingly deep seated feelings that Hinduism isn’t as practical or parsimonious in its cosmological intricacies as the Buddhist or Christian religions, or simply a yoga practice divorced of religious dogmas, I joined a wild (solo) adventure making the question of dismissal (of Hinduism) blissfully more complex...
One thing I hoped to survey on my trip to India was how individuals blend in or stand out from group activities and “groupthink” in spiritual communities, and whether heterodoxy (I just started reading Sen’s Argumentative Indian: under normal circumstances, I would never think to use the word “Heterodoxy” :) ) has more of an effect of creating factions within the group or leading the group as a whole in new directions. This is an important element in forecasting the direction Spiritual Communities take, of course, but this is also dear to my heart and very relative to my personal experience (which is, I guess, more what the blog is about :) )
When I first became involved with the Art of Living community, I was strongly identified as a Buddhist. My first meditation teacher was a Theravada Buddhist monk, and though, at that time, I went to a diverse number of different spiritual groups locally for meditation and studies, they were almost exclusively Buddhist groups. In Buddhism, many schools of thought say that praying to gods (or “Gods” or “God”) is futile, because essentially, one must rely on ones own inner intelligence and wisdom, only that will be one’s saving grace. A Buddhist does not take refuge in different gods because when those gods come out of power, Buddhists fear, the devotee is “stuck on a sinking ship”, to quote an old Buddhist teacher of mine.
I had somewhat of a cosmological butting of heads when the first week after learning the basic Art of Living techniques, I found it was common practice to close with group singing, and in the largely Hindu community that I learned the Art of Living with, this took the shape of Sanskrit mantras and Hindi bhajans. Was I “breaking refuge”? Would these Gods interfere with the direct path of my Buddhist studies? Who in the world is Vasudevaya?
Gradually, and I attribute it largely to both a hankering to learn the practice of mantra, whether Hindu or Buddhist, combined with the heart-wrenchingly beautiful singing each week of my dear friend Bhaskar, I began to take some pleasure in the musical Satsangs. Over time I became more involved with Art of Living and felt that it embodied the Buddhist teachings as I understood them, and I began to feel it was the most positive place for me to place my energies. Yet, over the years (though, admittedly, it has only been four…) being involved with the predominantly Hindu community of Art of Living in different areas, there has been a shift, completely of my own will, from Art of Living as a tool for embodying Buddhist ideals to Art of Living as a sort of dock on the Ocean of world religions, of which, the Sea of Hinduism is most readily at hand. (Can you tell I’m writing from the beach?)
The Vedic Sciences and the philosophies of the Upanishads and Vedanta that are so intertwined with the ‘formless’ Hindu religion have much to inform and supplement Buddhism, much as the simplicity of some Buddhist cosmology (Hinayana/earlier Buddhism) and meditative practices (Zen-mindfulness or Vipasana) give focus to the infamously diffuse light of Hinduism. Hinduism is, for me, about detail and fullness, and Buddhism is about direction.
So, for long I have been learning about Vedic Sciences and focusing mainly on scriptures of Vedanta or knowledge directly from Sri Sri, yet, all the while I have had, just under the surface, my deep well of love for Buddhism and Christianity. As time passes in the Art of Living, I try to judge for myself whatever I see. Sometimes in peoples’ behavior or attitudes or (not to blaspheme against some Art of Living teachers, but in my perception I must include this) their teachings, there is some sense that individuals bring in some amount of (Hindu) religious dogma into the more simplistic (parsimonious) spiritual teachings of the Guru. I am not talking about this now for any personal derision or as a more essential call back to the origin of the teachings, but rather about my own experience, so I am not including any further examples of this. However, I do sense at times this dogmatism and so I try to understand the religious practice, I try to see if it works for me and, if so, to what extent and why it does work for me. However, it has been easy for me to get wrapped up in groupthink or private practices of a spiritual group, and over the past few years, I’ve had ample opportunities to check myself in my attitudes, beliefs, and practices.
“Where I am” lately seems to be trying to come to terms (as anyone who has suffered through the rougher parts of reading the blog knows…) with being a “Yogi” and being American, with being in a predominantly Hindu community much of the time, and being somewhat othered by not being Hindu and also by not being Indian. * These questions occur time and again for me—either I tend to neuroses or I am, more positively, a self-aware person (in a fun comment in one of my personal journals, I wrote this same line and followed it with the pondering: “Is there a difference between neurosis and self-awareness?”) or maybe it’s just my age.
This sort of personal search for identity is given some immediacy by my history of what I could call, if I wanted to be cruel to myself, my religious fervor. This immediacy is augmented by frustrations with small-mindedness of people and group “politics” that are inevitable in any organization, spiritual or otherwise, Indian or American or International. (Though a famous quote that I can’t place, I believe it is Tagore, comes to mind: “If there are three Indians, there will be three opinions.” Of course, I’m saying this with love.) Over the past year, I’ve asked myself again and again, “Am I a Hindu?” And the only answer I will allow myself to proffer is, “NO!” (And yes, I refuse to read the book by the same name.) So, I’ve been walking this fine line of deciding where my faith is, and why it is there, and how I can participate in Indian spiritual communities without being Hindu. How can I beeline to the coolest Guru in all of India and parallel this with a disaffected answer when questioned about my religion? “Umm… I’m Buddhist or Christian,” my eyes trace the floor, “or something.”
At any time in the past year or two, the thought hasn’t been foreign to me of trying to “quit Art of Living.” (In one tape, Sri Sri jokes about how it’s impossible—“You can try, then one morning, in the shower, you find yourself singing ‘Jai Jai Radha Ramana Hari Bol’!” [The bhajan sung to close every Satsang in the past several years]) I’ve frequently reflected about leaving the organization and bringing Sri Sri’s knowledge and practices back to a more solidly Christian or Buddhist life. Still, when I arrived at the Bangalore Ashram at the beginning of February to meet with a dear friend from the North (“Heeeeeeey, Budd-IE!”) who had been staying there for six months, I was at a loss to hear him say that he had often been overcome by doubts about leaving Art of Living and joining the Catholic Church. (Which is, to my interest, and possibly my interest alone, much closer to the good coffee shops in Bangalore than the Art of Living ashram.) Yet, through my four months of India, now I could not sympathize with him more. He spoke of a time when a (particularly dogmatic?) ashramite interrupted his singing of a Christian song in the kitchen with an admonition that he should be singing the morning arati, a traditional Sanskrit prayer. Not only is the prayer in arcane, complex Sanskrit, much too hard for the uninitiated, (admittedly, my budd-IE is quite “initiated”) it is actually one that I have never, in four years of traveling with Guruji and listening to his lectures both live and on any of several dozen recordings, heard him talk about or recommend. **
Before leaving home, I found myself on one or two occasions, crying or on the brink of tears at the thought of how much Art of Living meant to me yet also how much I wanted to escape the organization, at least at its weaker moments. During this study, so much of the focus has been directly at learning about Indian society, (though the title and objective is to understand [Indian] Spiritual Community— explaining the disparage between my studying and the study itself will actually be a short essay on its own in my final paper, so more on that later) so a lot of what I have come in touch with is the real life dogmatism of different Hindu groups, and how different branches of Hinduism view and treat different groups of people. I’ve learned a lot about the kind of stories of the Gods told in the Vedas versus those of the Puranas. *** The way religious difference shapes the ways Indians treat each other (sometimes positively accepting, sometimes distancing, and at unfortunate but seemingly regular intervals, violently) the way they justify worldly actions and the way they view other religions and cultures are all great sources of doubt for me continuing on the path of yoga without having firmer ideas of my own faith and where it lies in relation to Hinduism, and, in a larger scope, where my personal cultural identity lies with respect to India. ****
I faced this a lot in Rishikesh when I was pressed between visiting the Dalai Lama and foregoing the experience. (Luckily, the decision was made for me as I broke my leg.) It was this same emotional confusion that made leaving Bangalore ashram so hard when I realized I could not stay there with a broken leg. In the torrent of frustrations, I thought I might never return, because of my own obstinence, and that scared me. And, as these thoughts set in, I was about to sit down and write about this confusion yesterday in the early afternoon.
It is all part of a struggle that I have been experiencing of whether or not Indian society is wholly deplorable to the values I was raised with. (The answer, of course, is that it is not, to make myself clear; but at times I definitely lack the right sort of intelligence to understand the culture through my own eyes, from my own moccasins.)
As I was about to have a coffee and get out my journal, a particularly placid street-hawker came up and showed me the beautiful cards he was selling, and I actually humored him, something I haven’t done in a long time with hawkers. After talking to him, I thought to call the local Art of Living group, remembering that I wanted to see if I could do the group Sudarshan Kriya practice before going home.
I got hold of the right person in the end and he seemed enthusiastic about there being a special program that day (yesterday) for Guruji’s 50th Birthday. Initially I was only interested in the Kriya, but I wanted to also attend a satsang to lift my spirits out of the blue. I figured it would be an excellent way to honor Guruji’s birthday, something I had wanted to do anyway. I packed up for one night and took an auto-rickshaw to Trivandrum and walked around (probably too much, my ankle is sore again :( ) before coming to the Kerala Ashram for the celebration.
After a short initial satsang, there was a Guru Puja. There were about 400 people there, and I was the only non-Indian. An announcement came in Malayam: “Blah blah blah blah Guru Puja Course Phase 1 or Phase 2, blah blah blah blah,” motioning to the front stage with the puja altar. Some people began to walk up to sit on the stage. He had made an announcement for people who had been taught the puja to come up on stage. “Do I go? I’m the only non-Indian here! That attracts so much attention. So many Indians will be weird if I go up on stage.” I pictured wide smiles, and a dozen people asking, “You’re from which place? You are working? You are traveling alone?”
I counter-reasoned: reciting the puja from my place in the audience might draw a more concentrated attention from the people surrounding me. “Maybe I should go up and do the puja because it is the natural thing to do. I’m following the flow of events.” (After thinking about it this much, nothing about the decision was “natural.”)
I went up. I took a seat and was given flowers to offer. It was a beautiful puja, a very blessed moment. Of the 400 people attending, there were only about a dozen of us who were on stage. I was self-conscious, but more absorbed in the puja, all in all. The satsang after the puja was blissful. About 40 minutes of really great music and there was wonderfully energetic devotion from all around. I was out of my head, literally, singing along, so conscious of how my mood had completely changed from earlier that day. An unexpected dance followed, traditional Indian dance, though (as far as my limited knowledge of Indian and Keralan dance goes) seemingly quite modern. It was amazing, one of the best Indian dances I’ve ever seen. I kept thinking, “This is better than the stuff they had us watch at Silver Jubilee, hands down!” As, for twenty minutes, the dancers held one another in positions that I didn’t think I could support my own body weight in, everyone was hushed except for moving one another out of the way so they could see better. More satsang followed, then prasad (dinner), then I was given a place to stay at the ashram for the night, followed by morning Kriya. A beautiful gift. And now, with a smile on my face, I am again entranced by what India can offer at times, and I wonder, just how Hindu am I???

* Essentially, (very essentially) there’s a basic conflict that people have labeled as some form of dualism again and again throughout the history of the world’s philosophies. If spiritual teachings don’t lie, then we are unchanging spirits, made up entirely of love and abundant with bliss, the abode of heaven; yet the body has many needs in the world, and the mind has a multitude of desires—circumstance put us in conflict with others in fulfilling these needs and desires, and we deal with this stress in any number of ways, all the while with that same “abode of heaven” in our hearts. Is it just sophomoric to say that existence is one big identity crisis? In some way, maybe my American identity is largely my consumer identity (aren’t we labeled a consumer culture?) and my conditioned stress reactions, and the yogic path is the dialogue of that spirit conflicting with my basic “tribal identity” if my American consumerism.

** One of the most interesting Q&A moments I got in translation from his Hindi talks in Rishikesh, one devotee wanted the advice of Guruji on a seemingly important matter: “What shradhas [religious observations / recitations of prayers] should we do daily?” Guruji’s answer (for an audience that was a vast majority of Hindu Indians, a smaller group of Sikh Indians and a small “residue” of Guru-chasers from outside India, who anyway couldn’t understand what he was saying without translation): “Go ask a pundit.” There wasn’t a trace of stepping down from the question, Guruji actually seemed to make his answer endorse any path of religiosity.

*** This is an interesting development in my little worldview, ever since studying early Christianity about four years ago, I have usually said, whenever I got “into it” with someone (I rarely do…) that I mostly believe in the New Testament and not the Old Testament, because of the often cited difference in the way the sources talk about God. The Old Testament speaks of a wrathful God, one that should be feared, and Jesus spoke of a God that was pure love, a benevolent, non-judgmental provider for all. The latter jived with my optimistic view of a world of transcendental purity, all strawberries and cream on the inside. Thanks largely to a comparison that Wolpert makes in his history, India, I realized that this is actually not very different at all from, for a direct example, the Gods of the Vedas and their violent power struggles, and attempts to fulfill a myriad of desires, and the kind of God that Krishna speaks of or the kinds of yogis described in the Upanishads.

**** There is an undying insistence of many Hindus that there is nothing that can ever conflict between their religion and another… though this makes for great interpersonal acceptance, this is subtly chauvinistic and denies of other faiths the tenets of their beliefs that actually do make them different forms of faith.
I even had a man include this on his obligatory five-minute summary of the faith that I was subjected to last night as I got ready for bed. I had told him only that I was writing about India, catalyzing his sermon, which he ended with “I tell you this because it came up.” His highest concern was that, being schooled in the West, I would have only been told of Hinduism, “that we stand on snakes and pray to many statues.” Though I had many opportunities to do so, I lacked the energy to contradict him and launch a debate, only rejecting his insistence that India had no deserts, which was his way of citing how non-Indians over-harvest resources and how Indians themselves were innocent of opportunistic over harvesting and other ecological abuses. Actually, during the conversation, I kept thinking how the conversation was the best example of a somewhat questionably educated Indian who was convinced that he was correct and had the only possible outlook—he wouldn’t listen to a word I said, not even pausing at my injection about the Thar desert as I tripped over my incredulity: “It’s like one of the largest deserts in the world!” Though, his son, my age, smiled.
To cite a (common) example of the Hindu belief that their faith does not come into conflict, at the Sivananda Ashram, one Christian woman, with much sympathy from the group, injected that she wanted nothing to do with the satsang where we chanted the traditional praise of Hindu Gods and the gurus of Sivananda’s Shankaracharya tradition, every morning and night, and the teacher, insisting that the satsangs were mandatory for people staying at the ashram, said that they weren’t in conflict with the Christian religion or any other, and all of us were left reflecting on how 90% of the interpretations of the First Commandment don’t readily conform to the teacher’s understanding of religiosity.

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

"God's Own Country"

Kerala's state mantra is "God's Own Country".... just to quote Ani in two consecutive blogs: "This may be God's Country, but this is my country too, move over mister holy, let the little people through..."

One week left. Thus far I've stayed in eight of India's 29 (or so) states, adding two more, Haryana and Maharashtra if you count transit. As I recount the trip, it seems both to have taken an immense amount of time and it seems cut short. It seems I've done a million things and had as many experiences, and it also seems so limited. The thought of coming home to familiar circumstances and familiar conversations has made me reflect, why did I come here? What did I expect to find? With endless trails of roads and jet streams behind me now, what, exactly, is supposed to be different?
India is an interesting place because the nationals live a life so often confusing to a foreigner who is a passive witness, yet all the other foreigners are in a state of flux also. Most foreigners, in India, are simply not settled. India makes a foreigner surrender to the hectic speed and rituals of daily life, and it still manages to jostle the surrendered foreigner out of comfort. Visitors here move. Conversations of the visitors are about movement-where one has been and where they are headed. It is rare for a foreigner to be holding any place in India that constitutes for a regular life, and those that do have a weathered state of detachment about life in India that dazzles more transient foreigners. For the average foreigner, India is something that happens between two fragments of reality. It is the evanescent transition, that moment in the night when you are awake between two periods of sleep-the comforting sleep of a familiar life.
Hindus and Buddhists subscribe to the doctrine of samsara, which I see translated in a lot of precursory introductions to the philosophy as "reincarnation." Yet, particularly Buddhist teachers will not give this definition. Samsara is an endless ocean that one crosses in search of salvation, enlightenment, nirvana. Samsara is a wheel of births that one is pinned under, and as time passes, samsara is the direct attachment to suffering. We are on shaky rafts cross this endless ocean that is usually under high-storm.
Living in India, at least as a foreigner, I feel like such a philosophy being born out of the land is really understandable. Suffering is everywhere, life and plans are rarely certain, and there's always a pinch of pain to wake you up when things get jostled. In a way, a trip to India is like the stormy night on the Ocean before one can return to the comforts of a new incarnation, the protection that the physical body provides for the soul. A return to home.
I realized at least once in my last days at Bangalore that part of what I was experiencing was my anticipated reverse culture shock. I had left so much of India behind by growing roots in the center of the comforts of Bangalore. (Actually, a book that I saw in a store about the modernization and cosmopolitization [I just made that word up...] of the city, called Bangalor'd has, for it's cover, a glassy photo of Brigade street, taken from exactly the spot where my hotel was!) Leaving "India" and returning to my own mirage of conceptions of "material culture" as presented itself in Bangalore left me like a ghost-searching for home because I thought it might be there, but unable to find it in hollow illusions. So much shopping, so much "normal food", so much coffee, after all was said, I was almost able to be "myself."
This occurred to me again as I got on the train for Trivandrum. I had been told before leaving home that riding on the train was one of the quintessential experiences of India, and that I simply must do it to sample Indian life. I managed to put off the infamously confusing and frustrating experience as much as possible, but I did take the experience, saving myself about $50 versus the airfare from Bangalore to Trivandrum.
I was about ten minutes early for the train, paying the porters far too much, and sitting down in a lifelessly blue seat under unforgiving lighting in a train that smelled unmistakably like urine. I flagged down the first chai-wallah to pass, and enjoyed a cup as I settled in to my seat, wondering who (and how bad) my neighboring passengers would be in the 6-8 sleeper beds that faced each other.
I could have cried when, after about 5 minutes, my first neighbor arrived-a Westerner somewhere near her fifties who, to my very pleasant surprise, was also headed to the Sivananda Ashram in Kerala, and to my astounding shock, does all of the Art of Living practices daily. My neighbor was a Godsend.
I almost did cry when my other neighbors set in-two families of young Indian parents with small children. Would there be any peace? Would there be any hope for it?
The heart of the train, unsympathetic, pulled us all Southward, and the 17-hour journey began.
Unwisely, I think I had one chai too many. When the mother of one of the families related that she needed me to turn off my light if her child was going to sleep, I laid, very awake, contorting my position to refract more light on the pages I tried to read, or hold a key-chain light up to the words. After one or two hours of this, I gave up, and stretched out, listening to the sound of tracks being swallowed back by the train, a flowing water that marked distance and passing night.
One of the fathers woke me up clumsily as he thrust his hand into one of my body parts, supporting himself with my sleeper bench as he balanced himself to sit up in the early morning. Wide awake and startled, not to mention infuriated, I acted like I was sleepily tossing and turning and sent a heavy leg down on his hand, pushing it off my sleeper. Revenge had been taken; the enemy was pushed off my territory. I tried to cool my mind and fall back sleep for about an hour, but eventually gave in to one mother talking with an auntie on the bench opposite mine, and the all-too-proximate sound of children waking.
Much of the rest of the ride was spent working through readings and trying to guess what was being served as chaat-wallahs walked down corridors or outside the train at stations bull-frogging the name of their item, "Chyaaaaaaaayaaaaah." Tea. "Kofeeeeeeeeeeee." Coffee. "Vaaaaaaaaaaaadaaaaaaaaa-doooooosaaaaaaaaaa." Vada-rice fritters or Dosa, rice pancakes; as you like. Those are about the only ones I figured out; though the banana pakora was amazing, I never figured out how to tell if someone was selling it. Whenever I was hungry, the hot-dog vendor voices of chaat-wallahs sporting tasty Indian goods were a consistent source of frustration and distraction: "What's he selling? Man... where are the banana pakora?"

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At some time around three, we arrived in Trivandrum and, still sporting my crutches, I panicked about getting my luggage off the train before it lurched forward again. With the help of my Godsend and the porters she sent, all was taken care of, and we quickly got a taxi up to the Sivananda Ashram, Neyyar Dam, via a very nice snack restaurant for fresh water and edibles.
Driving through Kerala was quite striking after my other experiences in India... I quickly met with my first wall branded with hammer and sickle in the traditional Soviet style, and realized almost as quickly that these were the abundant norm. The occasional BJP symbol-an orange and green lotus, rears its head through the myriads of hammer and sickles; it's almost heartwarming to see some political competition, even if it is the BJP. My doubts about the BJP's association with Hindutva movements, those of racial and ideological "cleansing", are somewhat milder now, as I've come to understand that actually most of the political parties in India are seriously questionable in American strandards. Varma (see closing note below) dedicates the first quarter of his book asserting that Indian society is traditionally undemocratic and amoral and everything here is at the whim of power dynamics and an infinite cornucopia of circumstance-this makes for strange politics! That being said, the run-of-the-mill Communist parties of Kerala aren't the Maoist Naxalites that cause havoc further North-East; the BJP is not the Nazi regime that some of their associates may be quoted as glorifying. It's just India, simultaneously harmless and virulent. Also more noticeable here are the myriad of Christian churches and prominence of invocations of a more familiar God and Prophet on billboards. Even Bangalore has a marked Christian presence, but further South, it actually seems to hush theological competition. Muslims never successfully dominated India's deep South, what is now Kerala and Tamil Nadu, but that only means Hinduism has remained especially strong with uninterrupted traditions. So, I assume the noticeable occurrence of Christianity here is due only to effective missionary work, but a part of me always hopes it is from dutiful St. Thomas traveling to Chennai and studying there, leading to Christian churches in southern India that predate the Vatican.
The Sivananda Ashram is set in the almost redundantly beautiful Keralan Malabar Coast. The entire coast seems to be lined with palm fronds and coconut trees, above which no buildings are taller, as the Rough Guide notes. The trees and foliage give Kerala an endless synonymy with the color green. Actually, Neyar Dam is particularly lovely. The road climbs up to the foothills of the area and there is a wildlife reserve and park situated around Sivananda Ashram and the dam. One effect the wildlife preserve has is that during pretty much any time of day, silence is broken not by winds passing through the palms, but what Lucy Edge described in her book, Yoga School Dropout, as lions copulating in the reserve, the other side of the lake in front of the ashram.
Satsangs, the evening gatherings of chanting and meditation, are a bit low-key here and ritualized, making me long for a healthy Art of Living satsang. Actually, pretty much everything here I am comparing with Art of Living, and it's giving me some space to step back and look at both Sivananda and Art of Living. The asana classes are great, and are providing the healing I was looking for, and it is great to be with so many cool people.
After five days or so, we met with out first weekly "day off" and a trip was organized to Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu. Kanyakumari is the southern tip of India, where the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal surrender to the Indian Ocean. Its namesake is the chaste goddess who stood in place performing tapas, religious austerities, on a rock off the shore, waiting to have her hand given to Lord Shiva in marriage. The town has a large Vivekananda Ashram and a memorial to the same saint, so famous for bringing Eastern philosophy abroad, and also offshore on the same rock. Kanyakumari also features, on a nearby rock, a giant statue of sage Thiruvalluvar (see the photo), and, on shore, a temple dedicated to Kanya Kumari.
The trip sounded great. En route to Tamil Nadu, we stopped in at a natural waterfall near the Kerala - Tamil Nadu state line, Triparappu Falls, and had breakfast served on a banana leaf. (Photo included of a particularly wonderful friend at the Sivananda Ashram with his idli-sambar.)

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These next photos are from Padamanabhapuram Palace, the old headquarters of a South Indian dynasty, the Travancore Kingdom... it's a remarkable complex of wooden palaces...

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The next stop was the Vivekananda ashram where we ate lunch. A few of us walked out to the beach, where the included photos were taken, and on the way back, I was realizing just how worn out my newly strengthened right leg was. I had just given up the crutches two days before.
After the bus ride down to the beach in the main part of Kanyakumari, I felt refreshed and able to walk a bit more, which was good because I was hustled to the ferry, about 3/4 of a mile away, the whole group rushing when I was barely able to keep a strolling pace. Arriving at the Vivekanda memorial (offshore, on the rock) I convinced myself it was worthwhile to walk around and see it since I was there. About half way through my chin was crunching up, my lips quivering, my throat shaking-completely ready to cry in pain and frustration. Interestingly, I kept making the same decision-to walk around and see the temple or what not, to walk out and get cash from an ATM that I desperately needed, or to walk, again, through one more temple. My ankle was visibly swelling as the day passed, and each time I sat down, I wasn't totally sure I'd be able to walk any more for the day.
When all was said and done, I walked at least three or four miles on a weak ankle, and have spent the three days since then on my back in my ashram room, coming out only for meals and for asana classes, and, increasingly, for service. This is convenient, as I wanted to avoid the lectures and rustic satsangs, however, doing so without injuring myself would have been preferable. I have plenty of time to rest, in the beautiful ashram refuge from the surrounding coconut and palm jungle of Kerala.
Regardless, tons of pictures are included, and it is time for asana class again! Lots of friends are making plans to escape the ashram and go to the local beach towns, but I think I'll pass, and enjoy my last stint of ashram life in India. The idea of organizing travel right now seems so beyond me it's not funny. Anyhow, I'll probably right next time from the airport, as Internet's not so easy here. I don't know the date at all, but I have very good reason to believe I have just one week left. Jai guru dev!

PS... for anyone who's keeping up with my reading , I finished Stanley Wolpert's (rather good) book India, on national history, and have moved on to Pavan K Varma's (I think that's his name!) Being Indian which is actually totally amazing and compelling....

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Saturday, April 29, 2006

Civil Disobedience

I found this in the History book I'm reading now, India, by Stanley Wolpert, it is in reaction to Britain's prolonging of martial law after the end of World War 1, just to give you all the fair historical backdrop... originally published in Gandhi's periodical "Young India"...
Anyhow, it reminded me of the blog I wrote yesterday....

"Civil disobedience seems to be a duty imposed upon every lover of personal and public liberty." -Mahatma Gandhi

Friday, April 28, 2006

I'm going to Trivandrum in my Mind.

I think I could live forever in Bangalore and not really learn a thing about India. That being said, it’s my last night here. In a way, I’m going to take “one quick dip” into India—travelling to southern Kerala for a two week “Yoga Vacation” at the well known Sivananda Ashram near Trivandrum (I’ve taken to using the old word for the city, as I initially couldn’t remember the city’s proper/modern name: Trivananthpuram). In another way, I’ve already long since left the subcontinent. The more I learn about India, the more it becomes something very separate from yoga—two different kinds of communities, not that either could be grouped into a single community. So, as I go south, I realize that my time at Sivananda will be no more the “real India” than Rishikesh, the city of saints, or hiding away in any other ashram. The life of yoga ashrams is as much an escape from India as it is from city life in the West, and this realization is the hardest and heaviest-hitting one of my trip. To reiterate my post from a couple weeks ago, “Sacrilege and Sanctity”—there is no “Holy Land”, not in the bazaars of India, not in the war torn Middle East. It doesn’t exist, our Home, wherever it may be, cannot be approached with plane tickets or bus fare; it is not of this world… basic enough, right?
So, what do I mean that I’ve “left” India? I’m feeling more and more that India is a land, not better or worse than any other. It just is—all the political crud, all the social snafus, and all the inner beauty of the individuals who give life its beauty by the perseverance of their spirit through the day-to-day trials that make life what it is. India, I this way, is interchangeable with every other nation. Its ancient traditions and modern flare make it wonderful, even as they make it almost incomprehensible, and all in all, it doesn’t really mean a thing. I’m American—if I’ve learned nothing else on this trip, I’ve learned that I really am American, and I’ve learned the value of that in my own heart and mind. I still think guns are stupid. I still wouldn’t die for my country; I wouldn’t even kill for it. But when I yell at someone over ten or twenty rupees, I think, “Damn straight. Layin’ down the American concepts of justice and equity.”
On the way up to the Canadian Ashram just before coming to India, I read Kurt Vonnegut’s latest, “A Man with No Country.” Vonnegut was arguing that because of all the billion ways he disagrees with American politicians, he feels he isn’t a person of the land or nation himself. I couldn’t disagree more. Because of those disagreements, I believe he (and I) are all the more part of America, because being American has all of that wrapped up in it. I’m thinking now of an Ani song—“I love my country / by which I mean / I am indebted joyfully / to all the people throughout its history / who have fought the government to make right” (from Grand Canyon off of the album Educated Guess).
Anyhow, what I mean to say by this is not that being American and loving my country is some wishy-washy mindlessly submissive patriotism where whatever the guys in power says “goes.” Being American (I wrote a whole essay about this at the beginning of my trip that I can’t wait to revisit!) is, for me, something very powerful. Americans, with so many rich inputs from so many cultures, have a history (and a duty) to lend a compassionate and understanding eye to people in need everywhere. The same eye is a critical eye when it looks on corruption, transferring the same energy as Shiva’s third eye, burning up evil at its root. At least, as an American, I hope this is the role I can fulfill. To me, this seems to all be “American” because it is the concept I have of myself and my power and my attitude towards life that I have grown up with, all the time being American all the way. (Maybe “Being American” just means “Being Me”… every time I attempt to write about this, whether in the essay three months ago that I still haven’t edited and typed up, or in last week’s blog or right now, in writing about race and nationality and social dynamics, it’s so much easier to go to extremes of condemnation and praise than it is to talk about social elements as they are.)
Regardless, what I have just written about, the powers of compassion and understanding and the will to fight, for me, they are all American traits. Do not read: “Exclusively American”; do not read: “Originally American.” As an American, the lines dividing me from other cultures aren’t just blurry, they don’t actually exist. As an American, every part of my culture is part of an ocean fed by all the worlds’ cultural rivers. To be a US citizen is, for me, to inherit the whole world, for everyone to be my ancestor. Stepping back from my own little identity-crisis-in-the-making, being American means, at the very least, that I am not just Indian. I don’t need or desire to imbibe this culture any more than my broken Hindi or daily yoga practice necessitates. I am quite comfortable with being a “dinner-table multiculturalist” if that’s what this makes me.
So, in short, I’m ready to go home. There’s not a whole lot more that India holds for me at this point. In my search for peace and knowledge, I’d do anything to have the peace of my own bedroom—I’d do anything to track down the knowledge that’s in the last season of Six Feet Under, not to mention the fact that if I spent less time worrying about where to find good food and a place to rest, I could probably actually read a bit more.
I just saw Paul Mayeda Berges (Bend it like Beckham, Bride and Prejudice) new movie (has it been out in the States long? It’s just opening here…) Mistress of Spices. Though not absolutely perfect, it was wonderful in communicating its ideas. The crux of it, to me, seemed to echo Jhumpa Lahiri’s The Namesake, which I read as part of my acculturation just before flying to India. The idea is that for an Indian in America (and, in my reading/viewing, for an American in India) it’s impossible and impractical to live in the land without compromising to the culture, and yet, it’s also just as impossible and every bit as impractical to try and live a life without paying respects to and bringing in the important elements from your own mother culture. So, here’s me, running around India with my rough Indian head-wobble, which I seem to use at the wrong moment sometimes, and my broken Hindi, and my Hindu rosary, clinging on to all my American past that I see fit—clinging on to my values and my cosmology, and desperately insisting, “no, I’m not a Hindu.”
(Fun story: A Tibetan asked me the other day if I was a monk because I was buying some particularly pious things from his “Tibetan Store” [that’s the name of the store] I smiled wide at the question and said, “I’m a monk in disguise.” Which I thought was clever enough, but he insisted: “What monastery are you from?” “Umm, I’m with Sri Sri Ravi Shankar.” “Hunh?” “Sri Sri Ravi Shankar.” “Oh. Ravi Shankar. Hindu.” He was disheartened. I defended, “No no, I’m not a Hindu…” and proceeded to try to define my religio-spiritual identifications.)
I was writing home to a friend yesterday, and came upon a really great thought— “it’s weird to leave India with so many dreams and fantasies of the Orient still unfulfilled.” I’ve been facing this a lot lately. I haven’t tracked down any Sufi pirs—I’ve thus not learned to spin in circles to achieve a drunken state of ecstatic union with “the Beloved.” I haven’t tracked down any wise Buddhist monks who thus haven’t taught me about the suffering in existence through the communion of their pregnant and knowing silence. I haven’t hiked up the Himalayas to stow away in a cave and learn lessons on yoga from an emaciated dread-locked Sadhu. Okay, so, whatever, I have done stuff really close to all of that, but still, as desires (that Buddhist monk I didn’t meet yet would be proud) they all remain unfulfilled and self-perpetuated, as desires generally do. Instead of ahimsa (non-violence), I find I generally slaughter mosquitoes en masse. Instead of acceptance and understanding, I find half the time I am thinking somewhat racist generalizations that end in the thought “Dumb Schmuck” that I don’t care to write more about on the blog. Instead of inner peace and equanimity, I find I am usually hung-over from the previous day’s coffee and tea consumption and unable to sit still during morning meditation. Virtually all of the Buddhist monks I’ve met in India are just the co-habitants of the Tibetan Hotel I’ve been staying at for the past week. They are hall-mates who pass by with a smile, not personal teachers who transmit ancient sutras to me. Okay, fine.
As I said earlier, I have done enough spiritual traveling while dragging my suitcases around India to be more than happy with the trip. I’ve had great moments with Sri Sri. (While explaining that I was studying Indian Spirituality to a Bangalorean in a coffee shop today, he asked, “Have you learned about Ravi Shankar?” Cha-ching. I felt really “on track.”) I’ve had wonderful, transcendent conversations with friends. I’ve experienced blissful, ecstatic moments of dissolution of my thoughts and worries that I can’t describe. I’ve been part of spiritual movements with Art of Living that I never thought would take place in my life anywhere in the world. So, it really is just the nature of desire to want to have all these other experiences. I still want them, for sure, but the desire is stronger now to reunite with American culture and its own spirituality. John Keay wrote in “Into India” about how the solemnity that sanctifies a Western religious experience has no place in the noisy, bustling temples of Hinduism, and from the realization that gave me, I have been longing for the quiet community of a Christian church and the individuality that is somehow more respected in Western religious communities. (I just killed a mosquito.)
Anyhow, compounding all these personal frustrations that have been producing the kinds of thoughts that I’ve been writing about now and last week, is the very real actuality of my leg. I had the cast taken off a couple days ago—now the 6 week mark from breaking my poor lil’ tibia. I initially tried to quite the crutches cold turkey, and found instantly that I had a mean limp and a swollen ankle. Rotating, stretching, and otherwise “working” the joint in the nights and morning gives way to sharp pains and ominous cracking. (Got another mosquito. Actually, make that two more.) Frustrated from pain and efforts, I am scared shitless that it won’t heal completely. The prospect of carrying with me a limp or random nerve pain is both sobering and fierce. I am both mourning the (hopefully ‘temporary’) loss of mobility and freedom, and also impressed with gratitude and wonder about how much of a miracle of health and ability I still have. Walking around Rishikesh without my glasses the day that I had my new pairs made gave me a lot of perspective about having my five senses working, and I think I’ve already written a lot about how being in India with a broken leg is quite a bit like being a constant by-stander. Only when absorbed in reading or writing or watching television can I really forget myself and my (again, hopefully temporary) handicap. Yet, this same “forgetting of myself” is what has grown to become my reminder of, “I am not this body.” A reminder which becomes transcendent at moments. Yet, whether I am my body or not, the thought of not being able to walk normally again does scare me shitless. So, in closing, yes, Mom, I did start using my crutches again.

Sunday, April 23, 2006

The Bangalore Confusion

The past days, after finishing panchakarma, the week of traditional Ayurvedic cleansing, I have been staying in the heart of Bangalore’s Brigade Road area, a conglomeration of a few streets that do their best to convince expatriots and IT professionals alike that they are in a city like any other. The people who are homeless or crippled who inch themselves along, asking for baksheesh and the autorickshaw drivers waiting for you at either end of Brigade Road are the reminders that, yes, indeed, you are in the southern heart of the Deccan plateau.
I’m so used to life in India that I am equally as pleased to find a deal at Pizza Hut or a great new invention of the Indian incarnation of Subway as I am to find a local chaat-wallah (urban Indian snack food) the South Indian Hotel (roadside dhaba-restaurant) around the corner, serving up spicier eats for 1/5th the price. So I’ve spent the last few days sipping on coffees at the Indian equivalent of Starbucks, Barista where the equivalent of a $5 coffee is one for Rs. 50 (about $1.10, I’ll take it while I can get it! Which reminds me, I better get some caffeine in my blood before it gets too late…) and after spending on coffee what local people spend to feed a family for a day, I walk out an bicker with autorickshaw drivers over 10 rupees here or there, (about 25 cents, this can, and often does, turn into a heated argument) not to save the money, but for the idea of not getting charged more than anyone else because of my skin color.
I did this exact thing two days ago. Of course, it was not a heated argument this time. I walked out of a movie (Ice Age 2!) that I paid 500 rupees ($12) for, about 5 times a normal cinema price here, to watch it in a theater with food included in the ticket price, waiters, and reclining “La-Z-Boy” style seats with plush, cushioned arm rests. Exiting the theater, I argued with the auto driver to get the price down to Rs. 60 from Rs. 70 (I paid him Rs. 65 after he agreed to 60—it’s really not about the money…)
So, today I’ve left behind my coffee bars and air-conditioned restaurants to visit the Bangalore Art of Living ashram again before leaving. I’ve decided to go to Kerala and practice yoga at the Sivananda Ashram near Trivandrum, close to the southern tip of India before heading home—I’m hoping to straighten out my posture and strengthen my arms and legs again—the cast comes off in three days. I’m also coming home early, to get my work for the study turned in on time and to leave myself more opportunities to do the things I was hoping to do this summer. Of course I wanted to spend time at the Canadian Art of Living Center as I’ve been doing for the past several summers, but I also have been invited to live and work with a friend and Art of Living teacher, probably up in New Jersey, and that seems like a great prospect. So, all said and done, I am leaving India in three weeks, it will be one day short of exactly four months.
The prospect of leaving soon, plus my “Western life” here in Bangalore has given me plenty to think about, however, my most interesting observation lately has been that I, myself, am not really making as many observations now. After a week of bed rest and intensive reading (during Panchakarma), I feel like I can talk about Indian society and write about it, but I feel numb to it as I watch it go on around me. While my sister visited at the beginning of the month, I was eager to say, “That’s normal, that’s normal, and that… that’s also normal.” As we passed by cows in the middle of the street, tailgating “Goods Carrier” trucks and men urinating on public walls. This has, however, become my experience. Everything I see just seems to be “The way it is,” and I feel I no longer have a real bearing on rational or normal behavior.
As I’m getting ready to leave India, casting my thoughts half way around the world to DC, to Virginia, I can’t help but leave this whole message as a half-thought. I don’t really know where I am now; I don’t know where I’ll be when I come home. I have learned a lot about Indian society and Indian history, but, just as 6 weeks ago I found I was trying to “enter” that illusion of India, now I find I am trying to find that illusion, feeling that I am already amidst it.
For now, I’m in the lap of luxury in Bangalore. As I get tired of resting my foot and my mind, I will gradually switch back from the movies and sitcoms and hit the books like I was last week. After the cast comes off, I’ll be in the thickly traditional state of Kerala as monsoon approached, and yet, I’ll be in a fairly non-Indian community at the Sivananda ashram. Wish me luck, I’m sending love.