Sean's Blog: "Spiritual Communities"

Monday, May 15, 2006

Dismissing Theology?

After my noon time meal and checking my e-mail yesterday, just as I was about to retreat to my journal and reflect on my seemingly deep seated feelings that Hinduism isn’t as practical or parsimonious in its cosmological intricacies as the Buddhist or Christian religions, or simply a yoga practice divorced of religious dogmas, I joined a wild (solo) adventure making the question of dismissal (of Hinduism) blissfully more complex...
One thing I hoped to survey on my trip to India was how individuals blend in or stand out from group activities and “groupthink” in spiritual communities, and whether heterodoxy (I just started reading Sen’s Argumentative Indian: under normal circumstances, I would never think to use the word “Heterodoxy” :) ) has more of an effect of creating factions within the group or leading the group as a whole in new directions. This is an important element in forecasting the direction Spiritual Communities take, of course, but this is also dear to my heart and very relative to my personal experience (which is, I guess, more what the blog is about :) )
When I first became involved with the Art of Living community, I was strongly identified as a Buddhist. My first meditation teacher was a Theravada Buddhist monk, and though, at that time, I went to a diverse number of different spiritual groups locally for meditation and studies, they were almost exclusively Buddhist groups. In Buddhism, many schools of thought say that praying to gods (or “Gods” or “God”) is futile, because essentially, one must rely on ones own inner intelligence and wisdom, only that will be one’s saving grace. A Buddhist does not take refuge in different gods because when those gods come out of power, Buddhists fear, the devotee is “stuck on a sinking ship”, to quote an old Buddhist teacher of mine.
I had somewhat of a cosmological butting of heads when the first week after learning the basic Art of Living techniques, I found it was common practice to close with group singing, and in the largely Hindu community that I learned the Art of Living with, this took the shape of Sanskrit mantras and Hindi bhajans. Was I “breaking refuge”? Would these Gods interfere with the direct path of my Buddhist studies? Who in the world is Vasudevaya?
Gradually, and I attribute it largely to both a hankering to learn the practice of mantra, whether Hindu or Buddhist, combined with the heart-wrenchingly beautiful singing each week of my dear friend Bhaskar, I began to take some pleasure in the musical Satsangs. Over time I became more involved with Art of Living and felt that it embodied the Buddhist teachings as I understood them, and I began to feel it was the most positive place for me to place my energies. Yet, over the years (though, admittedly, it has only been four…) being involved with the predominantly Hindu community of Art of Living in different areas, there has been a shift, completely of my own will, from Art of Living as a tool for embodying Buddhist ideals to Art of Living as a sort of dock on the Ocean of world religions, of which, the Sea of Hinduism is most readily at hand. (Can you tell I’m writing from the beach?)
The Vedic Sciences and the philosophies of the Upanishads and Vedanta that are so intertwined with the ‘formless’ Hindu religion have much to inform and supplement Buddhism, much as the simplicity of some Buddhist cosmology (Hinayana/earlier Buddhism) and meditative practices (Zen-mindfulness or Vipasana) give focus to the infamously diffuse light of Hinduism. Hinduism is, for me, about detail and fullness, and Buddhism is about direction.
So, for long I have been learning about Vedic Sciences and focusing mainly on scriptures of Vedanta or knowledge directly from Sri Sri, yet, all the while I have had, just under the surface, my deep well of love for Buddhism and Christianity. As time passes in the Art of Living, I try to judge for myself whatever I see. Sometimes in peoples’ behavior or attitudes or (not to blaspheme against some Art of Living teachers, but in my perception I must include this) their teachings, there is some sense that individuals bring in some amount of (Hindu) religious dogma into the more simplistic (parsimonious) spiritual teachings of the Guru. I am not talking about this now for any personal derision or as a more essential call back to the origin of the teachings, but rather about my own experience, so I am not including any further examples of this. However, I do sense at times this dogmatism and so I try to understand the religious practice, I try to see if it works for me and, if so, to what extent and why it does work for me. However, it has been easy for me to get wrapped up in groupthink or private practices of a spiritual group, and over the past few years, I’ve had ample opportunities to check myself in my attitudes, beliefs, and practices.
“Where I am” lately seems to be trying to come to terms (as anyone who has suffered through the rougher parts of reading the blog knows…) with being a “Yogi” and being American, with being in a predominantly Hindu community much of the time, and being somewhat othered by not being Hindu and also by not being Indian. * These questions occur time and again for me—either I tend to neuroses or I am, more positively, a self-aware person (in a fun comment in one of my personal journals, I wrote this same line and followed it with the pondering: “Is there a difference between neurosis and self-awareness?”) or maybe it’s just my age.
This sort of personal search for identity is given some immediacy by my history of what I could call, if I wanted to be cruel to myself, my religious fervor. This immediacy is augmented by frustrations with small-mindedness of people and group “politics” that are inevitable in any organization, spiritual or otherwise, Indian or American or International. (Though a famous quote that I can’t place, I believe it is Tagore, comes to mind: “If there are three Indians, there will be three opinions.” Of course, I’m saying this with love.) Over the past year, I’ve asked myself again and again, “Am I a Hindu?” And the only answer I will allow myself to proffer is, “NO!” (And yes, I refuse to read the book by the same name.) So, I’ve been walking this fine line of deciding where my faith is, and why it is there, and how I can participate in Indian spiritual communities without being Hindu. How can I beeline to the coolest Guru in all of India and parallel this with a disaffected answer when questioned about my religion? “Umm… I’m Buddhist or Christian,” my eyes trace the floor, “or something.”
At any time in the past year or two, the thought hasn’t been foreign to me of trying to “quit Art of Living.” (In one tape, Sri Sri jokes about how it’s impossible—“You can try, then one morning, in the shower, you find yourself singing ‘Jai Jai Radha Ramana Hari Bol’!” [The bhajan sung to close every Satsang in the past several years]) I’ve frequently reflected about leaving the organization and bringing Sri Sri’s knowledge and practices back to a more solidly Christian or Buddhist life. Still, when I arrived at the Bangalore Ashram at the beginning of February to meet with a dear friend from the North (“Heeeeeeey, Budd-IE!”) who had been staying there for six months, I was at a loss to hear him say that he had often been overcome by doubts about leaving Art of Living and joining the Catholic Church. (Which is, to my interest, and possibly my interest alone, much closer to the good coffee shops in Bangalore than the Art of Living ashram.) Yet, through my four months of India, now I could not sympathize with him more. He spoke of a time when a (particularly dogmatic?) ashramite interrupted his singing of a Christian song in the kitchen with an admonition that he should be singing the morning arati, a traditional Sanskrit prayer. Not only is the prayer in arcane, complex Sanskrit, much too hard for the uninitiated, (admittedly, my budd-IE is quite “initiated”) it is actually one that I have never, in four years of traveling with Guruji and listening to his lectures both live and on any of several dozen recordings, heard him talk about or recommend. **
Before leaving home, I found myself on one or two occasions, crying or on the brink of tears at the thought of how much Art of Living meant to me yet also how much I wanted to escape the organization, at least at its weaker moments. During this study, so much of the focus has been directly at learning about Indian society, (though the title and objective is to understand [Indian] Spiritual Community— explaining the disparage between my studying and the study itself will actually be a short essay on its own in my final paper, so more on that later) so a lot of what I have come in touch with is the real life dogmatism of different Hindu groups, and how different branches of Hinduism view and treat different groups of people. I’ve learned a lot about the kind of stories of the Gods told in the Vedas versus those of the Puranas. *** The way religious difference shapes the ways Indians treat each other (sometimes positively accepting, sometimes distancing, and at unfortunate but seemingly regular intervals, violently) the way they justify worldly actions and the way they view other religions and cultures are all great sources of doubt for me continuing on the path of yoga without having firmer ideas of my own faith and where it lies in relation to Hinduism, and, in a larger scope, where my personal cultural identity lies with respect to India. ****
I faced this a lot in Rishikesh when I was pressed between visiting the Dalai Lama and foregoing the experience. (Luckily, the decision was made for me as I broke my leg.) It was this same emotional confusion that made leaving Bangalore ashram so hard when I realized I could not stay there with a broken leg. In the torrent of frustrations, I thought I might never return, because of my own obstinence, and that scared me. And, as these thoughts set in, I was about to sit down and write about this confusion yesterday in the early afternoon.
It is all part of a struggle that I have been experiencing of whether or not Indian society is wholly deplorable to the values I was raised with. (The answer, of course, is that it is not, to make myself clear; but at times I definitely lack the right sort of intelligence to understand the culture through my own eyes, from my own moccasins.)
As I was about to have a coffee and get out my journal, a particularly placid street-hawker came up and showed me the beautiful cards he was selling, and I actually humored him, something I haven’t done in a long time with hawkers. After talking to him, I thought to call the local Art of Living group, remembering that I wanted to see if I could do the group Sudarshan Kriya practice before going home.
I got hold of the right person in the end and he seemed enthusiastic about there being a special program that day (yesterday) for Guruji’s 50th Birthday. Initially I was only interested in the Kriya, but I wanted to also attend a satsang to lift my spirits out of the blue. I figured it would be an excellent way to honor Guruji’s birthday, something I had wanted to do anyway. I packed up for one night and took an auto-rickshaw to Trivandrum and walked around (probably too much, my ankle is sore again :( ) before coming to the Kerala Ashram for the celebration.
After a short initial satsang, there was a Guru Puja. There were about 400 people there, and I was the only non-Indian. An announcement came in Malayam: “Blah blah blah blah Guru Puja Course Phase 1 or Phase 2, blah blah blah blah,” motioning to the front stage with the puja altar. Some people began to walk up to sit on the stage. He had made an announcement for people who had been taught the puja to come up on stage. “Do I go? I’m the only non-Indian here! That attracts so much attention. So many Indians will be weird if I go up on stage.” I pictured wide smiles, and a dozen people asking, “You’re from which place? You are working? You are traveling alone?”
I counter-reasoned: reciting the puja from my place in the audience might draw a more concentrated attention from the people surrounding me. “Maybe I should go up and do the puja because it is the natural thing to do. I’m following the flow of events.” (After thinking about it this much, nothing about the decision was “natural.”)
I went up. I took a seat and was given flowers to offer. It was a beautiful puja, a very blessed moment. Of the 400 people attending, there were only about a dozen of us who were on stage. I was self-conscious, but more absorbed in the puja, all in all. The satsang after the puja was blissful. About 40 minutes of really great music and there was wonderfully energetic devotion from all around. I was out of my head, literally, singing along, so conscious of how my mood had completely changed from earlier that day. An unexpected dance followed, traditional Indian dance, though (as far as my limited knowledge of Indian and Keralan dance goes) seemingly quite modern. It was amazing, one of the best Indian dances I’ve ever seen. I kept thinking, “This is better than the stuff they had us watch at Silver Jubilee, hands down!” As, for twenty minutes, the dancers held one another in positions that I didn’t think I could support my own body weight in, everyone was hushed except for moving one another out of the way so they could see better. More satsang followed, then prasad (dinner), then I was given a place to stay at the ashram for the night, followed by morning Kriya. A beautiful gift. And now, with a smile on my face, I am again entranced by what India can offer at times, and I wonder, just how Hindu am I???

* Essentially, (very essentially) there’s a basic conflict that people have labeled as some form of dualism again and again throughout the history of the world’s philosophies. If spiritual teachings don’t lie, then we are unchanging spirits, made up entirely of love and abundant with bliss, the abode of heaven; yet the body has many needs in the world, and the mind has a multitude of desires—circumstance put us in conflict with others in fulfilling these needs and desires, and we deal with this stress in any number of ways, all the while with that same “abode of heaven” in our hearts. Is it just sophomoric to say that existence is one big identity crisis? In some way, maybe my American identity is largely my consumer identity (aren’t we labeled a consumer culture?) and my conditioned stress reactions, and the yogic path is the dialogue of that spirit conflicting with my basic “tribal identity” if my American consumerism.

** One of the most interesting Q&A moments I got in translation from his Hindi talks in Rishikesh, one devotee wanted the advice of Guruji on a seemingly important matter: “What shradhas [religious observations / recitations of prayers] should we do daily?” Guruji’s answer (for an audience that was a vast majority of Hindu Indians, a smaller group of Sikh Indians and a small “residue” of Guru-chasers from outside India, who anyway couldn’t understand what he was saying without translation): “Go ask a pundit.” There wasn’t a trace of stepping down from the question, Guruji actually seemed to make his answer endorse any path of religiosity.

*** This is an interesting development in my little worldview, ever since studying early Christianity about four years ago, I have usually said, whenever I got “into it” with someone (I rarely do…) that I mostly believe in the New Testament and not the Old Testament, because of the often cited difference in the way the sources talk about God. The Old Testament speaks of a wrathful God, one that should be feared, and Jesus spoke of a God that was pure love, a benevolent, non-judgmental provider for all. The latter jived with my optimistic view of a world of transcendental purity, all strawberries and cream on the inside. Thanks largely to a comparison that Wolpert makes in his history, India, I realized that this is actually not very different at all from, for a direct example, the Gods of the Vedas and their violent power struggles, and attempts to fulfill a myriad of desires, and the kind of God that Krishna speaks of or the kinds of yogis described in the Upanishads.

**** There is an undying insistence of many Hindus that there is nothing that can ever conflict between their religion and another… though this makes for great interpersonal acceptance, this is subtly chauvinistic and denies of other faiths the tenets of their beliefs that actually do make them different forms of faith.
I even had a man include this on his obligatory five-minute summary of the faith that I was subjected to last night as I got ready for bed. I had told him only that I was writing about India, catalyzing his sermon, which he ended with “I tell you this because it came up.” His highest concern was that, being schooled in the West, I would have only been told of Hinduism, “that we stand on snakes and pray to many statues.” Though I had many opportunities to do so, I lacked the energy to contradict him and launch a debate, only rejecting his insistence that India had no deserts, which was his way of citing how non-Indians over-harvest resources and how Indians themselves were innocent of opportunistic over harvesting and other ecological abuses. Actually, during the conversation, I kept thinking how the conversation was the best example of a somewhat questionably educated Indian who was convinced that he was correct and had the only possible outlook—he wouldn’t listen to a word I said, not even pausing at my injection about the Thar desert as I tripped over my incredulity: “It’s like one of the largest deserts in the world!” Though, his son, my age, smiled.
To cite a (common) example of the Hindu belief that their faith does not come into conflict, at the Sivananda Ashram, one Christian woman, with much sympathy from the group, injected that she wanted nothing to do with the satsang where we chanted the traditional praise of Hindu Gods and the gurus of Sivananda’s Shankaracharya tradition, every morning and night, and the teacher, insisting that the satsangs were mandatory for people staying at the ashram, said that they weren’t in conflict with the Christian religion or any other, and all of us were left reflecting on how 90% of the interpretations of the First Commandment don’t readily conform to the teacher’s understanding of religiosity.

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

"God's Own Country"

Kerala's state mantra is "God's Own Country".... just to quote Ani in two consecutive blogs: "This may be God's Country, but this is my country too, move over mister holy, let the little people through..."

One week left. Thus far I've stayed in eight of India's 29 (or so) states, adding two more, Haryana and Maharashtra if you count transit. As I recount the trip, it seems both to have taken an immense amount of time and it seems cut short. It seems I've done a million things and had as many experiences, and it also seems so limited. The thought of coming home to familiar circumstances and familiar conversations has made me reflect, why did I come here? What did I expect to find? With endless trails of roads and jet streams behind me now, what, exactly, is supposed to be different?
India is an interesting place because the nationals live a life so often confusing to a foreigner who is a passive witness, yet all the other foreigners are in a state of flux also. Most foreigners, in India, are simply not settled. India makes a foreigner surrender to the hectic speed and rituals of daily life, and it still manages to jostle the surrendered foreigner out of comfort. Visitors here move. Conversations of the visitors are about movement-where one has been and where they are headed. It is rare for a foreigner to be holding any place in India that constitutes for a regular life, and those that do have a weathered state of detachment about life in India that dazzles more transient foreigners. For the average foreigner, India is something that happens between two fragments of reality. It is the evanescent transition, that moment in the night when you are awake between two periods of sleep-the comforting sleep of a familiar life.
Hindus and Buddhists subscribe to the doctrine of samsara, which I see translated in a lot of precursory introductions to the philosophy as "reincarnation." Yet, particularly Buddhist teachers will not give this definition. Samsara is an endless ocean that one crosses in search of salvation, enlightenment, nirvana. Samsara is a wheel of births that one is pinned under, and as time passes, samsara is the direct attachment to suffering. We are on shaky rafts cross this endless ocean that is usually under high-storm.
Living in India, at least as a foreigner, I feel like such a philosophy being born out of the land is really understandable. Suffering is everywhere, life and plans are rarely certain, and there's always a pinch of pain to wake you up when things get jostled. In a way, a trip to India is like the stormy night on the Ocean before one can return to the comforts of a new incarnation, the protection that the physical body provides for the soul. A return to home.
I realized at least once in my last days at Bangalore that part of what I was experiencing was my anticipated reverse culture shock. I had left so much of India behind by growing roots in the center of the comforts of Bangalore. (Actually, a book that I saw in a store about the modernization and cosmopolitization [I just made that word up...] of the city, called Bangalor'd has, for it's cover, a glassy photo of Brigade street, taken from exactly the spot where my hotel was!) Leaving "India" and returning to my own mirage of conceptions of "material culture" as presented itself in Bangalore left me like a ghost-searching for home because I thought it might be there, but unable to find it in hollow illusions. So much shopping, so much "normal food", so much coffee, after all was said, I was almost able to be "myself."
This occurred to me again as I got on the train for Trivandrum. I had been told before leaving home that riding on the train was one of the quintessential experiences of India, and that I simply must do it to sample Indian life. I managed to put off the infamously confusing and frustrating experience as much as possible, but I did take the experience, saving myself about $50 versus the airfare from Bangalore to Trivandrum.
I was about ten minutes early for the train, paying the porters far too much, and sitting down in a lifelessly blue seat under unforgiving lighting in a train that smelled unmistakably like urine. I flagged down the first chai-wallah to pass, and enjoyed a cup as I settled in to my seat, wondering who (and how bad) my neighboring passengers would be in the 6-8 sleeper beds that faced each other.
I could have cried when, after about 5 minutes, my first neighbor arrived-a Westerner somewhere near her fifties who, to my very pleasant surprise, was also headed to the Sivananda Ashram in Kerala, and to my astounding shock, does all of the Art of Living practices daily. My neighbor was a Godsend.
I almost did cry when my other neighbors set in-two families of young Indian parents with small children. Would there be any peace? Would there be any hope for it?
The heart of the train, unsympathetic, pulled us all Southward, and the 17-hour journey began.
Unwisely, I think I had one chai too many. When the mother of one of the families related that she needed me to turn off my light if her child was going to sleep, I laid, very awake, contorting my position to refract more light on the pages I tried to read, or hold a key-chain light up to the words. After one or two hours of this, I gave up, and stretched out, listening to the sound of tracks being swallowed back by the train, a flowing water that marked distance and passing night.
One of the fathers woke me up clumsily as he thrust his hand into one of my body parts, supporting himself with my sleeper bench as he balanced himself to sit up in the early morning. Wide awake and startled, not to mention infuriated, I acted like I was sleepily tossing and turning and sent a heavy leg down on his hand, pushing it off my sleeper. Revenge had been taken; the enemy was pushed off my territory. I tried to cool my mind and fall back sleep for about an hour, but eventually gave in to one mother talking with an auntie on the bench opposite mine, and the all-too-proximate sound of children waking.
Much of the rest of the ride was spent working through readings and trying to guess what was being served as chaat-wallahs walked down corridors or outside the train at stations bull-frogging the name of their item, "Chyaaaaaaaayaaaaah." Tea. "Kofeeeeeeeeeeee." Coffee. "Vaaaaaaaaaaaadaaaaaaaaa-doooooosaaaaaaaaaa." Vada-rice fritters or Dosa, rice pancakes; as you like. Those are about the only ones I figured out; though the banana pakora was amazing, I never figured out how to tell if someone was selling it. Whenever I was hungry, the hot-dog vendor voices of chaat-wallahs sporting tasty Indian goods were a consistent source of frustration and distraction: "What's he selling? Man... where are the banana pakora?"

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At some time around three, we arrived in Trivandrum and, still sporting my crutches, I panicked about getting my luggage off the train before it lurched forward again. With the help of my Godsend and the porters she sent, all was taken care of, and we quickly got a taxi up to the Sivananda Ashram, Neyyar Dam, via a very nice snack restaurant for fresh water and edibles.
Driving through Kerala was quite striking after my other experiences in India... I quickly met with my first wall branded with hammer and sickle in the traditional Soviet style, and realized almost as quickly that these were the abundant norm. The occasional BJP symbol-an orange and green lotus, rears its head through the myriads of hammer and sickles; it's almost heartwarming to see some political competition, even if it is the BJP. My doubts about the BJP's association with Hindutva movements, those of racial and ideological "cleansing", are somewhat milder now, as I've come to understand that actually most of the political parties in India are seriously questionable in American strandards. Varma (see closing note below) dedicates the first quarter of his book asserting that Indian society is traditionally undemocratic and amoral and everything here is at the whim of power dynamics and an infinite cornucopia of circumstance-this makes for strange politics! That being said, the run-of-the-mill Communist parties of Kerala aren't the Maoist Naxalites that cause havoc further North-East; the BJP is not the Nazi regime that some of their associates may be quoted as glorifying. It's just India, simultaneously harmless and virulent. Also more noticeable here are the myriad of Christian churches and prominence of invocations of a more familiar God and Prophet on billboards. Even Bangalore has a marked Christian presence, but further South, it actually seems to hush theological competition. Muslims never successfully dominated India's deep South, what is now Kerala and Tamil Nadu, but that only means Hinduism has remained especially strong with uninterrupted traditions. So, I assume the noticeable occurrence of Christianity here is due only to effective missionary work, but a part of me always hopes it is from dutiful St. Thomas traveling to Chennai and studying there, leading to Christian churches in southern India that predate the Vatican.
The Sivananda Ashram is set in the almost redundantly beautiful Keralan Malabar Coast. The entire coast seems to be lined with palm fronds and coconut trees, above which no buildings are taller, as the Rough Guide notes. The trees and foliage give Kerala an endless synonymy with the color green. Actually, Neyar Dam is particularly lovely. The road climbs up to the foothills of the area and there is a wildlife reserve and park situated around Sivananda Ashram and the dam. One effect the wildlife preserve has is that during pretty much any time of day, silence is broken not by winds passing through the palms, but what Lucy Edge described in her book, Yoga School Dropout, as lions copulating in the reserve, the other side of the lake in front of the ashram.
Satsangs, the evening gatherings of chanting and meditation, are a bit low-key here and ritualized, making me long for a healthy Art of Living satsang. Actually, pretty much everything here I am comparing with Art of Living, and it's giving me some space to step back and look at both Sivananda and Art of Living. The asana classes are great, and are providing the healing I was looking for, and it is great to be with so many cool people.
After five days or so, we met with out first weekly "day off" and a trip was organized to Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu. Kanyakumari is the southern tip of India, where the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal surrender to the Indian Ocean. Its namesake is the chaste goddess who stood in place performing tapas, religious austerities, on a rock off the shore, waiting to have her hand given to Lord Shiva in marriage. The town has a large Vivekananda Ashram and a memorial to the same saint, so famous for bringing Eastern philosophy abroad, and also offshore on the same rock. Kanyakumari also features, on a nearby rock, a giant statue of sage Thiruvalluvar (see the photo), and, on shore, a temple dedicated to Kanya Kumari.
The trip sounded great. En route to Tamil Nadu, we stopped in at a natural waterfall near the Kerala - Tamil Nadu state line, Triparappu Falls, and had breakfast served on a banana leaf. (Photo included of a particularly wonderful friend at the Sivananda Ashram with his idli-sambar.)

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These next photos are from Padamanabhapuram Palace, the old headquarters of a South Indian dynasty, the Travancore Kingdom... it's a remarkable complex of wooden palaces...

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The next stop was the Vivekananda ashram where we ate lunch. A few of us walked out to the beach, where the included photos were taken, and on the way back, I was realizing just how worn out my newly strengthened right leg was. I had just given up the crutches two days before.
After the bus ride down to the beach in the main part of Kanyakumari, I felt refreshed and able to walk a bit more, which was good because I was hustled to the ferry, about 3/4 of a mile away, the whole group rushing when I was barely able to keep a strolling pace. Arriving at the Vivekanda memorial (offshore, on the rock) I convinced myself it was worthwhile to walk around and see it since I was there. About half way through my chin was crunching up, my lips quivering, my throat shaking-completely ready to cry in pain and frustration. Interestingly, I kept making the same decision-to walk around and see the temple or what not, to walk out and get cash from an ATM that I desperately needed, or to walk, again, through one more temple. My ankle was visibly swelling as the day passed, and each time I sat down, I wasn't totally sure I'd be able to walk any more for the day.
When all was said and done, I walked at least three or four miles on a weak ankle, and have spent the three days since then on my back in my ashram room, coming out only for meals and for asana classes, and, increasingly, for service. This is convenient, as I wanted to avoid the lectures and rustic satsangs, however, doing so without injuring myself would have been preferable. I have plenty of time to rest, in the beautiful ashram refuge from the surrounding coconut and palm jungle of Kerala.
Regardless, tons of pictures are included, and it is time for asana class again! Lots of friends are making plans to escape the ashram and go to the local beach towns, but I think I'll pass, and enjoy my last stint of ashram life in India. The idea of organizing travel right now seems so beyond me it's not funny. Anyhow, I'll probably right next time from the airport, as Internet's not so easy here. I don't know the date at all, but I have very good reason to believe I have just one week left. Jai guru dev!

PS... for anyone who's keeping up with my reading , I finished Stanley Wolpert's (rather good) book India, on national history, and have moved on to Pavan K Varma's (I think that's his name!) Being Indian which is actually totally amazing and compelling....

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